How to use a twin needle
Updated: Apr 18
Another Tip Tuesday and this one is a doozy! Jacqui Hall was getting a bit of tunnelling when she was recently trying to use a Twin Needle and asked me what my top tips were for using a twin needle.
✂️ To start, I like to use a twin needle when hemming my knit fabrics. It gives a faux Cover Stitch look if you do not own a cover stitch machine.
✂️ Tunneling happens when the fabric is too thin and needs to be stabilised. So if you are experiencing this try putting a bit of tear away stabiliser underneath what you are sewing. I use my Heat and Bond Stretch Tape (available in our shop) and that seems to stabilise the hem enough to prevent the tunnel.
✂️You also want to make sure that there is nothing causing drag to your threading creating extra tension. When you add an extra spool of thread, it has weight, and especially because most machines have an added upright spool holder, this can create tension. I like to wind my thread onto a bobbin instead. It is smaller and not as heavy as a spool of thread and spins more easily. (see second picture)
✂️ When threading, go through the same channels as when you normally thread. However, the left needle thread can go behind the clip in front of the needle shaft and leave the right (second) thread out. This will keep the two threads from tangling.
✂️ Start with the needle down in the fabric. Do not backstitch. Instead leave a long tail. Hold onto the tail as you start sewing. I also like to hand walk the needle down into the fabric to make sure I am not hitting any metal before I start sewing.
✂️ You will be sewing from the top of the garment, so you can't see the underneath. This is why using the Heat and Bond Tape to secure your hem helps keep it even. You will also want to use a line on your machine to follow and keep your sewing straight.
✂️ You could even use a walking foot to help the fabric evenly feed.
Hope these tips help you achieve, and not be afraid of trying a twin needle. They give such a nice and tidy finish to your knit garments. You should definitely give this technique a try.
Thanks for the question Jacqui, a free PDF pattern of choice will be sent to you shortly!!